I watched Dayla Soul’s 5 Star film “It Ain’t Pretty” mainly because the filming takes place in and around San Francisco, California. When I was growing up in the ’70s and surfing the big winter waves of Ocean Beach, my non-surfing friends thought my tales of massive waves and scary wipe-outs were exaggerations. To me, this film is more than just excellent footage of Northern California’s big winter surf. It captures the essence of big wave riding from the perspective of a group of courageous, physically fit, and well prepared women.
The interviews of women who surfed “Kelly’s Cove” before the wetsuit was worn reveal everything about the changes the sport has undergone since its introduction to the USA. Aside from the biggest technological changes (wetsuit development, board shape and material) is the culture change. Surfing isn’t a fringe sport anymore. The women featured in this documentary have professional day jobs. They are committed to surfing big waves as much as any male out there today.
I was a bit surprised to learn what Jeff Clark (Maverick’s pioneer) had to say about the women’s initiative to be included in the annual “Titans of Maverick’s ” big wave competition. I won’t quote him, but I’d say he was hanging on to an old school notion that these women weren’t up to the challenge. In his defense though, it may have just been his way of culling the massive field of entrants. It would seem surfing, including the biggest waves, has attracted large enough numbers of participants that some surfers don’t think there are enough waves to go around. Regardless, women are now represented in that contest.
Even if you aren’t a surfer, this is one to watch to gain a full appreciation for the evolution of a remarkable sport and the changes it has undergone on what was once my home turf.
